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The Real Big Wednsday


PD41
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Greg Noll became known for his exploits in large Hawaiian surf on the North Shore of Oahu. He first gained a reputation in November 1957 after surfing Waimea Bay in 25–30 ft surf when it had previously been thought impossible even to the local Hawaiians. He is perhaps best known for being the first surfer to ride a wave breaking on the outside reef at the so-called Banzai Pipeline in November 1964.

The wave I caught at Outside Pipeline that day walled up twenty-five-feet high about half a mile in front of me. It broke to the left, so I was riding with my back to the wave, goofy foot, and it was a god-awful uneasy feeling. Instead of getting smaller as I rode it, the sonofabitch grew on me. It got bigger and bigger, and I started going faster and faster, until I was absolutely locked into it. I felt like I was on a spaceship racing into a void. At first, I could hear my board chattering across the face of the wave in a constant rhythm. As my speed increased, the chattering noise became less frequent. Suddenly there was no noise. For about fifteen or twenty feet, I was airborne. Then I literally was blown off my board.

—Greg Noll, Da Bull:

Great Vintage Hawaiin Video

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I'm not professional surfer, but I have been in some pretty big waves (about 12-15 footers) and the feeling is outta this world. When paddling out and seeing that mountain coming right for you, gives you a deep gut reaction. holding your breath through the washing machine on super-spin cycle and thinking "this is it. I'm outta air" only to be thrown up to grasp another mouthful of O2. Then the take-off on the edge of lip, looking down at the water FAR below, eyes wide, hoping you drop in and not "ride over the falls" is truly humbling. Speed builds up, and just as Mr Greg says, the board smooths out, control improves and carving the turkey is such a blast. (well, sometimes!! Once-in-while, not everything goes to plan!). Feeling very alive! Dunno, just saying and THANK YOU from this land-locked longbroader. I really appreciate your post! :) :) :)

Tankers RULE

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THANK YOU from this land-locked longbroader. I really appreciate your post! :)/>/>/>/>/> :)/>/>/>/>/> :)/>/>/>/>/>

Tankers RULE

You can still get tubed ! Try Tarp Surfing,,,,,

I don't surf much these days (into fishing now) but collect vintage surfing stuff. Have vintage boards hanging in the living room.

Glad you enjoyed the video. PD41

Surf spot near my house.

Lunada Bay Palos Verdes

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